Smoking fish

SMOKED meats and fish have long been a part of our culinary history. Our indigenous peoples used to use the Boucane method of cooking meats by smoke and fire in pits dug in the ground.

If you visit the beautiful area of Brasso Seco, at the community centre there is a replica of an above-ground smoker which is still active. This smoker cooks the fish or meat via an open slow smoke and heat method, the result being a drier product with a good smoke flavour. You can taste this first at their annual food fest later on in this year.

Smoked herring is the most popular smoked fish on our twin islands. Smoking fish was an ancient method used by Europeans to preserve fish in the absence of refrigeration, but because of its intriguing flavour it has stayed with us for generations. Smoked herring is preserved first by salting, then by a cold smoke method, whereby the smoke is produced in a firebox and allowed to cool before being passed into the smoking chamber where the temperature is a mere 70 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. This method imparts the smoke flavour and contributes to some drying, but the salting method prior to smoking takes care of the preserving of the fish.

I enjoy smoked fish and so my curiosity was sparked when I heard of the Trini Style Smokehouse in Williamsville. People that know me will attest I am an advocate of buy local, eat local, so my curiosity was further increased when I learned that they only smoke local Mayaro fish at the Trini Style Smokehouse.

When I got there I met Andy Sooklal, the owner. I had called ahead and ordered so he had already begun to smoke the fish which was the Mayaro catch of the day: cavalli.

While chatting Sooklal shared some key positives about his operation, he uses only local duck, pork, chicken, and fish. He has two smokers side by side, one is kept only for pork. Every piece of meat or fish is first marinated in his own secret marinade which contains all local spices and herbs.

The meats and fish are cooked in a closed smoker via the hot smoking method whereby the temperatures in the chamber ranges from 120-180 degrees F. The smoke that day was being produced from cured mango wood and orange wood. He controls both temperature and humidity to give an end result that is flavourful and moist.

It was a very organic and uplifting experience for me to learn that his smoked meats and fish are 100 per cent local, that he is determined to show that a business such as his can thrive on all local supplies.

I observed that Sooklal takes good care, with a lot of attention to detail in smoking his meats and fish. And rightfully so, he is truly a master of his trade, the smoked cavalli I enjoyed was tender, juicy and delicious with just the right amount of flavour from his marinade and the smoke. When next I return I’m going to try the smoked duck!

You can produce smoked fish or meats in your home barbecue pit if you have a kettle-styled barbecue pit (with the domed cover).

Smoked Fish Buljol

2 lbs fresh fish fillets, smoked or grilled

1 tsp minced chives

½ tsp ground allspice

salt and black pepper

1 tsp minced garlic

1 tbs olive oil

1 large onion, thinly sliced

1 pimento pepper, chopped

1 large tomato chopped

2 eggs hard boiled

2 tbs chopped chadon beni or cilantro

Preheat broiler.

Marinate fish in chives, allspice, salt, black pepper and garlic and olive oil.

Place in foil and smoke in your barbecue for about 1½ hours. Or pan grill for about 4 mins per side.

Remove and flake gently with a fork, place in a large bowl.

In a non-stick saute pan, heat 2 tbs olive oil and saute onion and pepper for only one minute.

Remove and add to fish, add tomatoes, and toss. Season with salt if needed.

Place fish onto platter, decorate with lettuce and egg wedges.

Season with salt and pepper

Sprinkle on chadon beni or cilantro

Serves 4 to 6

Smoked Herring Buljol

4 whole smoked herrings

1 lime, halved

4 tbs olive oil

2 onions, peeled, finely chopped

1 hot pepper, seeded and chopped

4 cloves garlic, chopped

6 ripe tomatoes, seeded and finely chopped

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.

Drop in fish, boil until the water turns a slightly golden colour.

Remove fish and drain, cool.

Remove head and discard.

Pull the fish off the centre bone and discard bone.

Now break the fish into tiny pieces with your hand, removing as many fine bones as you could. Squeeze on some lime juice.

Heat oil in a frying pan, add onions, pepper, and garlic.

Now add the herring, toss and add tomatoes.

Cook for a few seconds.

Serve with bakes or bread.

Serves 4 to 6

Wendy’s Cooking Classes, San Fernando

Roti: May 4, 9-12

Cales and Pastry: May 18, 9-1

Call: 357-0927 to register