Charlotteville a sleeping paradise

Lush landscape, resplendent beaches and easy-going appeal, Charlotteville is a nature lover’s paradise.

On mornings, sea gulls can be spotted gliding across the waters of Man-O-War Bay as pirogues rock side to side anchored near the shoreline.

It’s also not uncommon to see villagers exchanging pleasantries with foreigners and other visitors while awaiting transportation to get to work.

The fishing village, located at Tobago’s most easterly point, is also known for its vibrant culture and history.

During the annual Tobago Heritage Festival, residents celebrate their traditions under the theme, Natural Treasures.

Charlotteville’s presentation is usually one of the highlights of the two-week cultural showcase.

A lively procession from historic Fort Campbleton, comprising drummers, moko jumbies and costumed characters, heralds the day’s activities.

Along the route, residents re-enact some of their traditions before hosting a grand cultural extravaganza at the corner of Bay Street and Old Scheme Road, in the heart of the village.

Charlotteville has also produced some of TT’s top academics.

Late anthropologist Jacob Delworth (JD) Elder, who once served as Secretary for Culture in the Tobago House of Assembly, conceptualised the Tobago Heritage Festival. The first one was held in 1987.

Today, the road leading to the property he owned in Top River is named after him. A concrete step is the only remaining remnant of his home.

TT’s first head of the public service Doddridge Alleyne, retired teacher and politician Pamela Nicholson and economist Dr Vanus James are also household names from Charlotteville.

Forensic pathologist Eslyn Mc Donald-Burris and UNC deputy political leader Jearlean John were also born there.

Resident Arcturus Brown said while the contributions of the area’s distinguished sons and daughters have cemented Charlotteville’s place on the national landscape, subsequent generations have not followed suit.

EDUCATION MUST IMPROVE

Brown, 71, a retired teacher, claimed villagers are hardly accessing opportunities for education.

“Scholars have passed through the village but I ask myself, ‘What is wrong with us now?’

“How is it that the people who have left a legacy behind, we did not pick up the legacy. It is unfortunate.”

Using himself as an example, Brown said villagers of yesteryear were poor but ambitious.

“They did all they could to make sure their children were educated. That is not the case today.

“There are many more opportunities now for education of all types that did not exist in my time, and people are not harnessing them.”

However, he was pleased to note that children have generally been accessing the new online curriculum at both the Charlotteville Seventh-Day Adventist and Methodist primary schools.

In spite of the development that has come to Charlotteville, Browne believes the area should have progressed far more than it has.

“I have lived here all my life and when you compare the kind of money that has passed through this island and you compare where we came from in the past to now, we expected much, much better.”

He added Charlotteville could have been “a real paradise but it has gone nowhere.”

For example, Browne observed fishing, the area’s mainstay, is no longer lucrative because the majority of people who fish do not own boats.

He said there is nothing wrong in young people getting involved in fishing.

“But they have to learn the skills, get the knowledge about the sea and save their money. So, when they are going to fish, they going in a big way.

“Going out there (in the sea) and spend two or three hours just does not make sense.”

Charlotteville is a fully self-contained district from which residents can access clothes, footwear, household items and other merchandise.

Vice-president of the Charlotteville Village Council Vernon Taylor said during his years at the head of the organisation, they were able to get a library and a jetty.

The area has its own police station, health centre, recreation ground and cemetery, all in close proximity.

It also has two primary schools and a kindergarden as well as five churches.

“It took us a while to get these things but we lobbied,” said Taylor.

He said most of the community’s development took place before and during Hochoy Charles’ tenure as chief secretary, from 1996 to 2001.

Taylor also recalled former prime minister Basdeo Panday had declared Charlotteville a port of entry.

A mall and pavilion and community centre are currently under construction. The latter is expected to be completed in 18 months.

Taylor said while Charlotteville has developed by way of amenities and infrastructural projects over the years, the mentality of its people has generally remained the same.

Asked why this is so, he shrugged his shoulder and said: “It is a small community so small mentality.”

Taylor, who was born and raised in Top River, joked the “community’s information is faster than social media.”

He said many villagers appear to prefer gossip and small talk over education.

“People don’t like to read and study.”

Taylor said residents who excelled in positions of leadership, never had understudies.

“They were not training anybody to say: 'When I faze out, this person will take over.'”

Taylor told Newsday Tobago the library is under-utilised.

“Village people hardly use it. You have to force children to go in the library.”

He said parents must encourage their children.

“Teachers cannot do everything because they have their own families.”

Taylor said transportation has been a sore topic in Charlotteville for decades.

But he observed the August 10 general election and covid19 had a positive impact on transportation to make transit easier for residents working in Scarborough and other areas

“Covid help us a lot because the bus never used to run. The bus started to run just before the election. Buses did not run for years. That was a concern we had. The buses start to run now because of election and since then they never stop.”

Taylor said buses now come to Charlotteville three times a day.

And with the borders still closed to the international market, Taylor observed men who usually plied their panel vans for hire are also working in the area because the routes in and around Scarborough are saturated.

“Is up here everybody does come now because is $15 from Charlotteville to Scarborough and they are seeing where they could pay their instalment.”

UNSAFE TURBIN BEND A PROBLEM

Una Antoine complained portions of the road leading to Charlotteville are in desperate need of repair, particularly in the area known as Turpin Bend.

In the lead-up to the general election, Tobago East MP Ayanna Webster-Roy promised to address the situation at Turpin Bend to bring relief to constituents.

In September 2019, Secretary of Infrastructure, Quarries and Environment Kwesi Des Vignes said the THA was engaging Udecott on a solution for the issue.

Des Vignes said, "We know that double bend in Charlotteville has been a longstanding sore point and with many accidents and loss of lives, which is very regrettable.

“So we have taken on the task to ensure we can come up with a workable engineering solution. Many times, people would come to me and say we should do one thing or another but I want to emphasise there is no simple solution to the issue.”

Antoine, 61, said she was a passenger in a vehicle that overturned near the “Bend” on October 12. She said her right hand was injured during the accident.

Speaking to Newsday Tobago after visiting the health centre for dressing, an upset Antoine demanded the THA fix the road as a priority.

“I want the authorities to come and do something about the Turpin Bend there because it could ah be worse than what happened on Monday.”

The mother of four said she was in a vehicle coming from Roxborough when the accident occurred.

“I don’t know what happen to the driver and the vehicle but I hear everybody saying she came down in drive (gear), but like something went on with the brakes and with that she try to bank the vehicle and instead climb the bank and flip.

“So, it flip on the side that I was sitting and then I get all the cuts on meh hand and I in pain.”

Antoine added: “They want somebody to go over dey again to dead and when they done they just come and put caution tape.

“Nobody could tell who will be the next person. I could have been in a mortuary.”

Taylor also claimed yachties have also been polluting Pirates Bay and other beaches surrounding Charlotteville over the years.

“There were times when you go to bathe in Pirates Bay and you see a set of thing like froth. They were not properly disposing their effluent.”

He said the village council had asked the assembly to address the matter.

Late prime minister Patrick Manning had sent former Speyside/L’Anse Fourmi/Parlatuvier representative Aldington Spencer and former assemblyman Carlyle Dick to St Vincent to see how that island disposed of its effluent.

Taylor said the village had recommended a floating tank be set up “so once you enter the community you must deposit at a cost.”

CULTURAL, SPORTING HISTORY

In terms of sport, Taylor said Charlotteville is no longer a dominant force.

“Sports in the village is dead. But at one time, we were the best in Tobago.”

He recalled the national football team, led by Brian Williams, once visited Charlotteville for a friendly.

“We embarrassed them.”

Taylor said the area also produced good athletes and cricketers.

There was even talk that a barefoot runner, Godfrey Mitchell could have made the national Olympic team.

“The area was tops in all sports but they never got the opportunity.”

Norway-based footballer Kennya Cordner, who top scored for her club last season, is from Charlotteville.

Taylor said Charlotteville used to be a leader in culture but its efforts now are limited to the heritage festival and Speyside Jazz.

“If yuh want to see friends yuh never see in years, yuh will see them in Charlotteville heritage.”

Taylor observed heritage activities are now managed by church organisations.

“A lot of people from the community take part but the leadership is more church people.”

On the bright side, Taylor said Charlotteville is a disciplined community where people still display good manners and respect authority.

“Once the youths are speaking among themselves, you will hear some obscenities. But, at least if a senior citizen pass, they take it down.”

Taylor described residents as determined.

“If they set their mind to something they achieve it.”

Despite its shortcomings, Taylor said he would not trade Charlotteville for anywhere in the world.

“I grew up here and travelled all over the world but here remains my home.”