Tobago for the birds

On Global Big Day, Faraaz Abdool toured, from sunup to twilight, the Main Ridge to the wetlands, and counted 85 species of birds. He reports here on the highlights of a magical day. Contact him to participate in the next Big Day, planned to take place in October 2022.

Thousands of birders around the world observed Global Big Day on May 14. It is organised to identify species of birds in the same 24-hour period. Each year since its inception in 2015 by the Cornell Ornithology Lab, more people in more countries take part in the effort to tally as many bird species in the same 24-hour period. Global Big Day in May 2021 saw 7,234 species recorded across 192 countries. Numbers swelled this year to 7,682 species in 201 countries – the first time the number of participating countries crossed the 200 mark.

The purpose of this exercise is far-reaching and scientifically significant, to map and record birds in every location on earth at a moment in time. There are two Global Big Days each year, one in May and the other in October and both coincide with peak migration times. Many migratory species’ paths are poorly understood, and sightings from as many countries as possible contribute to the understanding of global ornithology. In this present moment of extreme anthropogenic pressure on the natural world, we seek to learn as much as possible about the animals we share our space with.

While there is no prize for the highest total, there is satisfaction in mapping the world of birds. Every level of participation helps to make more people aware of the natural environment. Many work in teams to raise funds for various environmental causes and scientific pursuits. The fundraising effort by regional non-profit Birds Caribbean took the form of a birding tournament, with teams from the various islands competing to raise the most funds via birding. This writer represented the island of Tobago as part of Bajan Birders and Friends with members from Barbados, St Lucia, Canada, and the US.

Global Big Day commenced with a spectacular sunrise through thick, brooding clouds sitting low over Main Ridge. The rainforest was slow to wake, with many birds opting to remain hidden in the undergrowth. Their presence was felt as they filled the cool air with their melodious songs and calls. Barred ant shrikes called to each other in staccato. The thick, rich warble of a nearby rufous-breasted wren rose over on the soft calls of red-legged honeycreepers in the canopy.

Magical as it was, there was a full day ahead. For the sightings to count toward Global Big Day statistics, they had to be recorded on eBird, a free citizen science app. As long as a bird could be reliably identified, the species was recorded. Fresh off the blocks along the Roxborough-Bloody Bay Road within the Main Ridge Forest Reserve, the list was already impressive. Secretive birds like the plain antvireo and the rarely seen grey-throated leaftosser were identified by their distinctive voices. A great black hawk with a wide white band on its tail swooped into a nearby tree and was added to the list.

The few hours spent in the rainforest seemed to fly past, and it was time to hit the road. A quick stop at Bloody Bay turned out to be much more extensive than planned, as the fishermen were pulling seine and the birds were going wild trying to get at the fish caught in the great net. Hundreds of laughing gulls worked themselves into a frenzy, swooping after any silvery flash in the shallows as the net drew closer to shore. Magnificent frigatebirds soared overhead, patiently awaiting the moment when the odds shift in their favour.

As the fishermen heaved the seine closer to shore, the avian activity began to come to a boil. The din and whirling feathers of hundreds of birds was a confusing situation, but we were able to spot a few royal terns in the mix, and even a couple of dainty roseate terns! Suddenly, there was a huge commotion at the shoreline. Something massive in the net was putting up a major fight to stay in its watery world. The men pulled; the splashing intensified. More men lent their hands and within a few seconds we saw a massive stingray, thrashing its fins and tail in desperation. Without missing a beat, two fishermen stepped nearer to the flailing beast and gently removed the net – allowing the stingray to rocket out of view on a receding wave. Experienced tour guide and naturalist Darlington Charles was on site and asserted that the fishing community at Bloody Bay is aware of sustainable habits which would ultimately preserve biodiversity.

The next stop was the south west of the island to search for wetland birds. From jetties to sewerage ponds, this portion of the survey was conducted as quickly as possible. Most wetland birds hang around all day, but the sun was at its unforgiving peak. The usual suspects were present in varying numbers but there was a lone outlier: a black-headed gull. These natives of Eurasia and Africa are not known for crossing the Atlantic, but on occasion a bird may be blown off course while on migration.

The day concluded with sundown at Flagstaff Hill, straining our eyes to see magnificent frigatebirds hounding scores of red-footed boobies around the St Giles islands. As darkness took hold, the mournful wail of a common potoo pushed the day’s list to 85 species.

There were several species of birds that escaped our eyes and ears. In retrospect, there were other locations that could have been scanned briefly; more time and other eyes would help. But birding is never about rushing. Stops were made and relationships kindled, which is what birding is all about. Being in nature is outside of time, enjoyable, fulfilling, and profound. The numbers can change on a future Big Day; but the opportunity to travel to some of Tobago’s idyllic and picturesque locations to see what birds there might be is always a memorable and unique experience.