Easing into nature

Joanne Husain explores Trinidad’s northeastern forest through Bajnath’s Estate.

Opposite the popular Salybia Beach on Trinidad’s rugged northeastern coast is an unassuming road that meanders into the lush landscapes of the Matura National Park. With a few residences at the start, this road gradually ascends through shady bamboo groves and forest. The treeline opens here and there, revealing stunning vistas of untouched parts of the Northern Range.

The road ends at the trailhead to Rio Seco waterfall, but the very last property before this is where you’ll find Bajnath’s Estate.

Nature’s own carnival band greets you at the bottom of the steep driveway. Here is Hummer’s Lane, a carefully curated garden with vervain, lantana, heath, heliconia, cosmos and zinnia interspersed with artificial nectar feeders. Tiny prismatic bodies take centre stage. Come alive with the rhythmic flutter of their wings – the buzz of hundreds of hummingbirds is electric! Sometimes, wings are not feathered but scaled – butterflies and moths also abound.

Adjacent to the hummingbird garden are some fruit feeders frequented by tanagers and honeycreepers.

It’s easy to be mesmerised, forgetting time while sitting among the flowers and feeders, but there is much more to experience at Bajnath’s Estate. The feeders line the way to Sapodilla Lodge, a quaint, rustic, and completely off-grid two-storey wooden house built around a sapodilla tree.

The house sits atop a ridge with views of verdant valleys and hills all around. This is the base for all visits to the estate, where you can savour a home-cooked meal and a hot cup of cocoa tea, or simply relax in one of the hammocks.

A small family-run operation with Josh Bajnath at the forefront, the estate currently welcomes day visitors by appointment only. His family constructed Sapodilla Lodge on the estate about 15 years ago as their personal getaway.

Growing up visiting the estate, Josh is very attuned to the forest, and can be described as a self-taught naturalist.

He recalls seeing birding tourists for the first time in his life along the Arima-Blanchisseuse Road as a young adult while working at his first land-surveying job. This piqued his interest in wild birds, and he started to actively landscape for and feed them, eventually photographing them on the estate.

Josh also explains that during the covid19 pandemic, relatives and friends would arrange estate visits to get some respite from being housebound.

The four-acre property offers easy access to pristine forest. It seemed natural to share the space with local and foreign visitors for relaxation, birding, photography, hiking and waterfall tours.

As you enter the property, the pollinators at work at Hummer’s Lane capture you. Many delighted guests have found themselves caught in the middle of frenzied hummingbirds, unable to move towards the lodge.

Host and guide Josh issues a gentle and timely reminder to get comfortable. No fewer than 13 hummingbird species have been sighted in the garden, including the diminutive and ornate tufted coquette and the distinctive long-billed starthroat. Josh readily identifies the various species, even offering direction to photographers for the best vantage points.

The aromas from the open-air kitchen at Sapodilla Lodge will peel you away from the hummingbird garden. Josh’s mom, Andrea, has prepared a full local lunch, or some hot-out-the-oven coconut drops. Freshly brewed coffee is always available. Tea-drinkers are offered fresh lemongrass picked from behind the house.

A short walk back here gives you a vantage point over a valley. It’s not uncommon to see a soaring bird of prey, but if you are lucky, you may see the critically endangered and endemic Trinidad piping guan, locally known as pawi. Both adult and young birds have been observed at Bajnath’s Estate.

Gently descend through the forest on a well-maintained private trail. Josh leads the way with a handheld radio. He is knowledgeable about the flora and fauna, and prioritises safe and ethical interactions with the environment. It’s an easy ten-minute walk from Sapodilla Lodge to the river.

Along the way, the whirring of lekking manakins and the distant bonks of bellbirds punctuate the forest soundscape. As the trail flattens out, you come upon Mora Mora, a viewing platform constructed from a naturally fallen tree. Climb six metres up and enjoy the feeling of being in the trees.

Near the river, the air is cool and soothing. Refresh body, mind, and soul with a swim in the natural pool fondly referred to as Liquid Ice. This is, of course, part of the Rio Seco, which flows into the Salybia River, emptying into Saline Bay. It’s safe for all ages and lifejackets are available.

For a longer hike, Josh takes tours further upstream to the Rio Seco waterfall and sulphur spring.

Bajnath’s Estate offers full-day or half-day trips for an easy approach to experiencing local nature. The Bajnath family is welcoming, fostering a sense of peace at their estate home and creating a comfortable entry to our rainforest.

Cellular service is poor to nonexistent here. Technology and social media can have many negative effects, so it is a prudent choice to routinely disconnect and be present in nature.

For bookings, phone/WhatsApp +1-868-728-7386