Gita Sahai’s culinary journey from Trinidad to New York City

BAVINA SOOKDEO

At 62, Gita Sahai's journey from her roots in Trinidad to the bustling streets of New York City is remarkable.

In an interview, Sahai shared her inspiring story of taking the flavours of Trinidadian cuisine to the heart of New York and making a mark internationally.

Born into the Ramsackal family in Bejucal, Trinidad, Sahai spent her early years immersed in the family business, from selling goods at the Chaguanas market to helping run Ramsackal’s Supermarket in Cunupia alongside her siblings.

In 1982, she married Ganesh Sahai and embarked on a new chapter, migrating to Queens, New York. Her husband was involved in the food business in Manhattan, running Sims Delicatessen and then, in 1989, opening Melissa’s Gourmet Deli.

Reflecting on the genesis of her restaurant venture, Sahai recalls the palpable demand for authentic Trinidadian meals and family-style dining in her new home.

“ Although we still cooked at home, there was nowhere to go out and have a good time (like back home) or enjoy a nice Trinidadian family-style dinner and cocktails.

"At that time there was one roti shop and maybe one or two West Indian groceries in New York. There were even restaurants which represented many other islands and countries but (they were) nonexistent for Trinidad.”

With Trinidad and Tobago’s culture and cuisine close to her heart, in 1995, she and her husband seized the opportunity, opening The Flamingo Restaurant & Bar in Ozone Park, New York, the first of its kind in the city. Specialising in Trinidad-style Chinese cuisine and West Indian dishes as well as TT-inspired drinks and cocktails such as rum punch, sorrel and peanut punch, the restaurant quickly became a beloved fixture in the community.

Sahai explained that the local Chinese people of TT have developed different variations to their own cuisine, which is what we describe today as Trinidad-style Chinese cooking.

“We picked up on this local favourite and decided to feature this cuisine at our establishment. Our first chef was a Trinidadian of Chinese descent. Our best seller from then until now is our shrimp wontons.”

In addition, she also features other signature TT dishes such as callaloo, crab and dumpling, roti, curries and soups.

Sahai emphasises the importance of authenticity: “I truly believe that we must stick to using the traditional ingredients which define the history of some foods in TT, such as culantro, aka bhandhania/chadon beni, thyme, peppers, curries, and certain masalas, just to name a few.”

One can imagine the challenges Sahai faced in setting up shop, but she credits her family’s unwavering support for smoothing the journey. She acknowledged the difficulty in finding the right location but underscored the strength of family bonds in overcoming obstacles.

As a woman from Trinidad making her mark on the international culinary scene, Sahai reflects on her journey with pride.

“It feels great. It is a lot of work, but hard work pays off.

"I also try to be a role model for the upcoming women out there in the community who look up to me. Being in New York City, there is so much more to learn and always room for improvement.”

With three children, four grandchildren and a thriving restaurant, Sahai remains focused on giving back to her community and fostering a sense of home for Trinidadians in New York. She expresses gratitude for the overwhelming support from customers, who often remark on the restaurant's authentic atmosphere and flavourful cuisine.

“Many people are impressed by what we put out for the community and thank me for the service we provide. We try to keep the food, entertainment and environment as authentic as possible.

"I have been told that I am a very friendly boss, and many customers tell us that they visit as soon as they land at JFK Airport because they feel at home. Some patrons say things like, “Wow, this reminds me of back home,” 'Best wontons,' 'Best Trinidad Chinese food,' and simply, 'Thank you for doing this.'"

Asked how she incorporates elements of Trinidadian culture and tradition into her restaurant beyond just the cuisine, Sahai proudly said, “We’re not only known for food and drink, but we are, and have also been, an entertainment hub featuring many acts and performances from TT.”

TT artistes who have performed at Sahai’s venue include: Scrunter, Crazy, Ravi B, Shal Marshall, Marlon Asher, Denise Belfon, Rikki Jai, Rasika Dindial, Rakesh Yankarran, the late Anand Yankarran, Hitman, Hunter, Ramrajie Prahboo, the late Sundar Popo, Boodram Holass and Sam Boodram.

“We are also grateful to have been patronised by many popular personalities and honourees from TT at some point over the years, such as Raymond Ramnarine, Mighty Sparrow, Calypso Rose, Machel Montano, Kees, Lyrikal, the late Anil Bheem, Basdeo Panday, Kamla Persad-Bissessar, Keith Rowley, Trinidad consulate generals– and the list goes on.”

US community leaders and officials also visit Sahai’s restaurant, including New York State judge Karen Gopee, congressman Meeks, ambassadors, city officials and more. “We are widely known for our annual parang fiesta for the past 27 years, which takes on Thanksgiving eve to kick off the holiday season with acts by parang legends – Scrunter, Crazy and more – and we have many planned soca and chutney acts from Trinidad throughout the upcoming year.

"Next up is our Easter weekend chutney jam on Saturday, March 30, featuring Rasika Dindial.

"We are also participating in and sponsoring community events such as the Divali motorcade and other charitable community events.”

Asked about any memorable experiences while running her restaurant, Sahai recounted, “Our establishment is also known for giving back to the community. Twelve years ago, I also began hosting an annual Christmas For Kids event, where all children in the community are invited for complimentary presents, refreshments and pictures with Santa. This is a very memorable moment for me, because I enjoy making children happy.”

Looking ahead, Sahai envisions further growth. She remains committed to providing an inviting space where patrons can experience the warmth and richness of TT hospitality.

“We have been expanding and growing our restaurant since 1995. Since then, we have moved to bigger locations over the years. I hope to grow our clientele on a larger scale and promote our culture further.

"We will continue to provide authentic Trinidadian cooking and an environment where you can feel at home. We are always looking for new ways to enhance our business and we are open to constructive criticism.”

On the observance of International Women's Day which was observed on March 8, Sahai emphasises the importance of recognising and supporting women in business and entrepreneurship. She believes in equality and inclusivity, stressing the value of gender diversity in the workplace.

“I believe that having women in the workplace and gender diversity is what makes the workplace whole. In many workplaces, women are overlooked, especially minority women. Being a minority businesswoman in New York City from Trinidad shows that anything is possible once you put your mind to it. We have come a long way.”

To other women who aspire to follow in Sahai’s footsteps and pursue their passions, whether in the culinary world or beyond, the restaurateur encouraged, “Hard work pays off. Work hard, go to school and always be positive and respectful. Family always comes first. Supporting others and your community are both key to your success and always be open-minded.”

To her customers and supporters from TT, Sahai says “Thank you for supporting us throughout our journey. Without you, there would not be an us.”