Do not tarnish the silver

In recent times I have been seeing and hearing many more Trinidadians saying that they are moving to Tobago – for the slower pace of life, much lower crime rate and resulting feelings of safety and relaxation.

Many refer to the sense of peace and lack of fear experienced even as the plane touches down on the Crown Point runway. Passengers’ stress falls away as they saunter through the tiny airport, devoid of crowds, and wait in fresh air to be collected near the large TOBAGO sign.

Stereotypically, the following kinds of things await eager Trini visitors: the beach, seaside "sundowners" (drinks at sunset), fetes at Villa X or Y, big limes at No Man's land, local food at Store Bay, lazy days in hammocks, getting from point A to point B with no traffic other than a herd of goats or sheep crossing the road, time to be alone to reflect, rest, create, heal ...

With TT being "one country" it is relatively easy for Trinis to choose Tobago as new turf, facilitating a temporary or permanent escape from the complexities of Trinidad.

In response to more Trinis moving over, a commonly-heard statement (from both Tobagonians and some Trinidadians already living here) is: "Once they don’t bring the crime with them!”

A belief generally held is that once a crime (especially a serious one) is committed in Tobago, “a Trini did it.” Only denial could make this "true"; every society has its deviants.

As I write this, early on the morning of November 15, Tobago’s murder count stands at ten for the year, the latest casualty being SRP Kyle Lashley, who was fatally shot on November 12 in a drive-by shooting in Les Coteaux. A related news report said "sources indicate" the shooting could be linked to gangs in Trinidad fighting for turf in Tobago.

While the tenth-murder-for-the-year statistic is a drop in the bucket compared to Trinidad’s 500-plus-and-growing-daily murder toll, for the people of Tobago, ten is worrying – already too many, considering that the total murder count in 2021 was seven.

Tobago is still at the stage where it is shocking to hear or read of yet another shooting (fatal or not) on the island. While police were searching for SRP Lashley’s killers on the night of the attack, a man was shot in the arm in Scarborough.

Especially with the upsurge in gun-related crimes, one wonders how long cries of "What happening to my/we sweet 'Bago?" will have relevance. There must have been a time when Trinidadians cried out with a similar phrase – one which now exists only in The Museum of Things People Once Used To Say.

With "the news" almost everywhere we turn, it is impossible to do this, but... if one does not ever read the newspapers, listen to/look at the news, engage with social media, talk with other people, overhear public conversations or witness or experience an actual serious crime or shooting, one would not know about the surge in gun-related violence, or other crimes, happening in Tobago.

The odd pop-pop-pop noise in the distance would still be casually considered fireworks or a transformer blowing.

To the average Trini now moving to Tobago, it still feels better to move to a place that currently has "only ten murders a year"...especially if those murders are gang-related or domestic and do not seem likely to touch those who live in "secure housing" and move from point A to point B in air-conditioned vehicles with rolled-up windows, rarely interacting to close degrees with actual or potential "gangsters."

To the average foreigner coming to escape the cold (which, in some places, is currently not as cold as usual, thanks to global warming) the level of safety (or lack thereof) in Tobago may not be a major concern. Travel advisories usually issued by the US and UK (advising reconsideration of travel to TT because of "crime, terrorism and kidnapping") are still not enough to deter some travellers from choosing the TT brand of "Paradise."

Recently, at the World Travel Market 2022 in London, Tobago was awarded a silver award for "Most Desirable Island" by Wanderlust Travel Magazine.

What makes an island "most desirable"? Regardless of the answers, no doubt supported by glossy tropical magazine/brochure photos, without a solid, working crime plan, efficient police force and assurance of safety, even the shiniest silver can be tarnished.